Originally published in Potentials
magazine, October 2006Doubly distilled from the Ugni Blanc grape and aged in fine oak barrels, Cognac, a type of brandy named for the region of France where it is produced, is a gift that connotes luxury and refinement. Cognac is increasingly the brown spirit of choice among business people "tired of the corporate scotch."
When selecting Cognacs, attention should be given to the spirit's age. The spirit becomes more complex and mellow over time, and as it ages, it begins to emphasize the fruit of the spirit. Age is denoted on the label by a few abbreviations: V.S. (Very Superior) for Cognacs at least two years old; V.S.O.P (Very Superior Old Pale) for those at least four years old; X.O. (Extra Old), Napoleon or Hors d'Age, denotes at least six years' ageing. Cognacs in each category are usually composed of a blend older than the minimum age requirement. As the taste of Cognacs vary by viticultural area and production style, it's a good idea to consult a guide or the tasting notes typically provided by the producer. Here are a few good bets with comments from Flavien Desoblin, owner of the Brandy Library, New York's premier brandy, Cognac and spirits bar:
Hennessy V.S. Hennessy, one of the oldest and best known names in cognac, makes a satisfying gift.
Delamain Pale & Dry X.O. Delamain's X.O. is "light, elegant and dryer" than the Hennessey and a great deal for its price.
Frapin Château de Fontpinot Château de Fontpinot is "luxurious," and at under $100, a buy. Its "intense fruit and shorter finish" gives this Cognac "power, sweetness and roundness."
Hine Antique XO Hine's blended Cognac combines the "dryness of Delamain and the richness of Frapin" in a taste that lingers over a "long finish."
Pierre Ferrand Selection des Anges The "Angel's Share" is Ferrand's outstanding 30-year-old, mid-range Cognac. It is "fruit driven," and "though it's old, it's still very complex."
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